Friday, March 23, 2012

The Dewdrop Hat

You're going to pick up on a bit of a pattern in succeeding posts. The cause: I've been flipping through old magazine covers(VOGUE: The Covers by Dodie Kazanjian). I didn't even make it to the 1920's before my brain was so overloaded with inspiration that I had to stop. Sigh. Why don't they make mainstream magazine covers like this anymore? Well, I know why, but that’s beside the point.

First up: the Dewdrop hat, based on an April 1915 cover illustration by George Wolfe Plank. Perfect for those days when you're dying for spring attitude but would still like to keep your head warm. I had considered trying to formulate a felted knitting pattern, but I don't currently have the knowledge, time, or resources to figure it out.

Your fabric needs to be heavyweight--something that will hold its shape, but as softly as possible. I wonder what a high quality felt would do. Or, if you find a lighter and prettier fabric, you might try lining it with something stiffer. This would also save you from having to finish the edges. Just sew your drop shapes together, leaving a couple inches open. Trim seams, clip curves, turn right side out and press before closing that last couple of inches. And check to make sure whatever fabric you choose will hold up under a few surprise bad weather days.

You'll need:
- at least 24 square inches of heavyweight fabric (and of lining, if using)
- Thread to match
- Various lengths of multi-colored ribbon, any width, but at least one length 1/4 – 1/2 inch wide and 1 1/2 yard long
- A few scraps of fabric for decoration
- A washable marking pencil
- A ruler

1 - Bring your selvage edges together and lay folded fabric out flat. In a lower corner, draw a circle 12 inches in diameter, nearly touching the fabric edges. Toward the opposite corner, make a mark 10 inches from the circle's edge. Using your ruler, draw a straight line from the mark to where it meets the circle on both sides, creating a drop shape. Cut it out. (If you'd rather, draw the shape on a large piece of paper first, then cut 2, or once from 2 layers of fabric.)

2 - On one of your pieces, wrong side up, mark 2 inches from the top point on the edge of one side. Draw a gently curving line to meet the opposite side edge a few inches before it meets the circle. Tack your ribbons (except that ¼ - ½ inch one) firmly to the front side only of this new edge, angled slightly toward the bottom of the drop. You can leave them all hanging straight, or in loops, twisting them, braiding them, etc.

Fold the ribbons snugly over the edge to the other side of the fabric and pin them down (they should now angle toward the top of the drop). Wind them together and temporarily secure to keep them out of the way. Right sides together, 1/4 inch from the edge, sew the smaller drop to the larger between the widest side points of the circle and the pointed top.

3 - Put on your new hat to check for proper snugness. How to wear it: This hat will work best with a bun at your crown or very low by your neck. The seam with the ribbons and overhanging edge runs along the top of your head, ending a few inches above your hairline. The bottom edge should sweep down within an inch or so of the corner of your eyes, and the whole hat should fit comfortably without wanting to fall into your eyes or pull back off your head. Make adjustments at the back seam, also adjusting the bottom curve of the drop shape to keep it as even as possible.

4 - For unsewn edges on the bottom and side of the hat, turn as slim a hem as you can manage and stitch it in place by hand. Machine-sew down one edge of your length of ribbon with a large stitch length.  On the underside of the hat fabric, match the unsewn edge of ribbon to the edge of the hat, pulling the gathering stitches to help it lie flat. Pin it carefully in place and adjust as you sew it down the middle and over the turned hat edge with a wide decorative stitch (hopefully your machine will allow for this). You might also want to sew along one or both sides of the ribbon, or at least tack them down periodically.

Also :
A - Take your fabric scraps and cut then into simple shapes or flowers, leaves, etc. Attach where and how you desire. Raw edges will fray over time, so if that look doesn’t appeal to you, sew two layers together and turn, or hand stitch to cover the edges.
B - You could do some stunning embroidery with any leftover ribbon.
C – Make it yours!

It’s a little more springtime! Enjoy, friends!

liv-cate 

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