The Dewdrop Hat

You're going to pick up on a bit of a pattern in succeeding posts. The cause: I've been flipping through old magazine covers(VOGUE: The Covers by Dodie Kazanjian). I didn't even make it to the 1920's before my brain was so overloaded with inspiration that I had to stop. Sigh. Why don't they make mainstream magazine covers like this anymore? Well, I know why, but that’s beside the point.

First up: the Dewdrop hat, based on an April 1915 cover illustration by George Wolfe Plank. Perfect for those days when you're dying for spring attitude but would still like to keep your head warm. I had considered trying to formulate a felted knitting pattern, but I don't currently have the knowledge, time, or resources to figure it out.

Your fabric needs to be heavyweight--something that will hold its shape, but as softly as possible. I wonder what a high quality felt would do. Or, if you find a lighter and prettier fabric, you might try lining it with something stiffer. This would also save you from having to finish the edges. Just sew your drop shapes together, leaving a couple inches open. Trim seams, clip curves, turn right side out and press before closing that last couple of inches. And check to make sure whatever fabric you choose will hold up under a few surprise bad weather days.

You'll need:

- at least 24 square inches of heavyweight fabric (and of lining, if using)

- Thread to match

- Various lengths of multi-colored ribbon, any width, but at least one length 1/4 – 1/2 inch wide and 1 1/2 yard long

- A few scraps of fabric for decoration

- A washable marking pencil

- A ruler

1 - Bring your selvage edges together and lay folded fabric out flat. In a lower corner, draw a circle 12 inches in diameter, nearly touching the fabric edges. Toward the opposite corner, make a mark 10 inches from the circle's edge. Using your ruler, draw a straight line from the mark to where it meets the circle on both sides, creating a drop shape. Cut it out. (If you'd rather, draw the shape on a large piece of paper first, then cut 2, or once from 2 layers of fabric.)

2 - On one of your pieces, wrong side up, mark 2 inches from the top point on the edge of one side. Draw a gently curving line to meet the opposite side edge a few inches before it meets the circle. Tack your ribbons (except that ¼ - ½ inch one) firmly to the front side only of this new edge, angled slightly toward the bottom of the drop. You can leave them all hanging straight, or in loops, twisting them, braiding them, etc.

Fold the ribbons snugly over the edge to the other side of the fabric and pin them down (they should now angle toward the top of the drop). Wind them together and temporarily secure to keep them out of the way. Right sides together, 1/4 inch from the edge, sew the smaller drop to the larger between the widest side points of the circle and the pointed top.

3 - Put on your new hat to check for proper snugness. How to wear it: This hat will work best with a bun at your crown or very low by your neck. The seam with the ribbons and overhanging edge runs along the top of your head, ending a few inches above your hairline. The bottom edge should sweep down within an inch or so of the corner of your eyes, and the whole hat should fit comfortably without wanting to fall into your eyes or pull back off your head. Make adjustments at the back seam, also adjusting the bottom curve of the drop shape to keep it as even as possible.

4 - For unsewn edges on the bottom and side of the hat, turn as slim a hem as you can manage and stitch it in place by hand. Machine-sew down one edge of your length of ribbon with a large stitch length.  On the underside of the hat fabric, match the unsewn edge of ribbon to the edge of the hat, pulling the gathering stitches to help it lie flat. Pin it carefully in place and adjust as you sew it down the middle and over the turned hat edge with a wide decorative stitch (hopefully your machine will allow for this). You might also want to sew along one or both sides of the ribbon, or at least tack them down periodically.

Also :

A - Take your fabric scraps and cut then into simple shapes or flowers, leaves, etc. Attach where and how you desire. Raw edges will fray over time, so if that look doesn’t appeal to you, sew two layers together and turn, or hand stitch to cover the edges.

B - You could do some stunning embroidery with any leftover ribbon.

C – Make it yours!

It’s a little more springtime! Enjoy, friends!

liv-cate 

a little more...goddess - The Apheleia Top

The ApheleiaTop


Please Note: During the following explanation, anyone caught verbally or mentally using the word ‘TOGA’ will be speared on sight. Thank you.

Do you badly need a vacation? Would you like to look a bit more statuesque? Are you trying to dress to complement your classical nose? Yes, you say? Then you need...

Rosewilde and Canderley’s Apheleia top!

Our inspiration:

the Ionic Chiton of ancient Greece. We confess, it might have been in response to our getting sucked into the gorgeous photos on some travel sites.

The early Greeks, when they wore clothes, were known for their beautifully draped and folded style of dress. The best part is, copying this look yourself means little to no sewing. So we decided to name it Apheleia, in honor of the ancient spirit of simplicity.

Gather your tools as follows:

- 1 ½ - 2 yards of 36 inch wide fabric, in a light to very lightweight weight (a heavier weight will not drape properly), any color, dark or light, plain with no pattern, or just a simple geometric print or border;

- 2 buttons 1 inch wide or larger (again, very geometric), and 4 smaller, matching buttons;

- about 3 yards decorative cording and

- thread to match your fabric. 

You’ll also need

- scissors and a

- sewing machine.

How much fabric should you buy, exactly? 1 ½ yards will fall a few inches past your hips, depending on your height. Decide how long you want your finished top to be. Point to that length and measure down to it from your shoulder. Multiply that number by 2, add 3 inches, and divide the results by 36 to know how many yards you need. Round up to the nearest ¼ yard. Wash and iron your fabric before sewing!


When sewing, stitch seams 1/2 from edge. Turn your hems under twice 1/4 inch, or serge and turn 1/2 inch.

All ready? Great! Here we go:

1: Even the cut edges of your fabric. Fold it widthwise in half (perpendicular to the selvage), and lay it out flat on the floor. Slice along the fold, creating a 2-layer rectangle about 36 inches wide (or elbow to elbow plus 5 inches) and 27 or more inches long.

Is the fabric too wide? Don’t be afraid to cut it down on one side. Also, don't worry if you’re an inch or two short in length because the fabric was cut unevenly. You might even want to make it shorter. Just be sure all sides are even, and wide enough to reach generously from elbow to elbow, and shoulder to past your hip.

2: Serge all your edges, or turn them under ¼ inch and iron folds in place. Turn side edges another ¼ inch to the same side and stitch it down. Turn and stitch top and bottom in ½ inch.

3: Measure the face of your buttons. Working on the top edge, 9 inches from the center on each side, pull the back piece over the front, overlapping by the width of a large button. Pin and stitch a 1/2 inch line down the center of the overlap. Apply the large buttons on top. Do the same at the outer corners and 5 inches from each side, overlapping back over front by the smaller button width.

4: Right sides together, sew front to back at sides, close to the folded edge (about 1/8 inch), leaving about 7 inches open at the top. Stitch twice for sturdiness, if desired. Turn fabric right side out.

5: Take your decorative cording and criss-cross it a few times around your midsection. For ideas, Google "Ionic Chiton", or have a look at some Greek art.

Ta-dah!

Want some extra beauty secrets?For a goddess glow, cover your skin with a nice sheen of olive oil and pat on some chalk or white lead. Smear those lips and cheeks with red iron oxide, then grab a stick of charcoal and fill in a lovely unibrow.

Please Note: Rosewilde and Canderley list these tips for entertainment purposes primarily, and do not endorse the use of lead in any beauty regimen. Thank you.

A little more fancy! Enjoy!

Rosewilde and Canderley

For a bolder look:
Don't hem bottom edge. You'll need an extra 1/4 yard of your initial fabric, or a matching shade of knit fabric. From that, cut a rectangle 6 in. long and the measurement around the widest part of your hips plus 3 inches wide. Fold in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Turn long edges under 1/2 in. and press. Run 2 lengths of long, gathering stitches all around the bottom edge of the whole shirt. Pinning right sides together, pull gathering stitches to match the long edge of the rectangle, keeping gathers even, and stitch. Fold along pressing lines, and stitch through both layers 1/8-1/4 in. from where the rectangle joins the shirt.